Ring materials - precious metals in jewelry

 

Rings and jewelry are often made from various precious metals. But what are precious metals? A precious metal is a metallic element whose atoms do not easily release their outermost electrons and, therefore, do not react with hydrochloric acid or weaker acids.

In Finland, the raw materials for precious metal products include gold, silver, platinum, and palladium. The most common products made from precious metals are, for example, jewelry, silverware, decorative items, and souvenirs. Additionally, precious metals are used as raw materials in various industries.

Gold - traditional and timeless yellow gold

Gold is a soft, shiny, and very ductile and malleable metal. Its distinctive yellow color sets it apart from other metals. Gold is used in jewelry making, but it is also used as a raw material in various industrial sectors.

Pure gold is too soft for use in jewelry, so it is alloyed with other metals to achieve the desired workability, hardness, and color shade. Different shades of gold are obtained by adding varying amounts of alloying metals to the gold.

In yellow gold, silver and copper are used as alloying metals. A small amount of zinc is used in all gold alloys to improve the casting and workability of the gold. 9, 14, and 18 karat gold are most commonly used in jewelry and rings, as pure 24 karat gold is too soft for jewelry use.

Gold as a ring material

Gold is a truly traditional and classic material for rings. As a ring material, gold has maintained its popularity year after year. Gold is a timeless and beautiful metal, and it is also relatively easy to maintain and clean.

• Gold is a timeless and classic ring material

• Gold does not tarnish

• Gold is an easy precious metal to clean and maintain

• Gold is relatively soft and scratches easily

• Gold alloy may contain metals to which you are allergic 

White gold - a cool-toned classic

White gold is a gold alloy whose light color shade is achieved by adding a whitening metal, most often palladium nowadays, to the gold alloy. Palladium is heavier and more expensive than other alloying metals used in gold, which is also why white gold products are slightly more expensive than traditional gold or rose gold.

Generally, all white gold jewelry is surface-treated with rhodium, which gives the jewelry a shiny and beautiful light surface. The rhodium plating wears off over time, revealing the true color of the white gold. If the proportion of palladium in the white gold alloy is minimized or if nickel has been used as an alloying metal, the white gold color peeking through may be yellowish or brownish.

The rhodium plating of a ring should be redone when the ring starts to become scratched or its own color shows through the plating.

White gold as a ring material

Cool-toned white gold is another popular and timeless material for making rings. The beautiful color of white gold is also easy to combine with many different styles. White gold is an easy-care metal but requires a little more from the wearer than, for example, yellow gold.

• Beautiful color that pairs well with other metal jewelry

• Looks good with all colored gemstones

• White gold does not tarnish

• White gold alloy may contain metals to which you are allergic

• White gold's rhodium plating wears off with use 

Rose gold or red gold - a warm-toned alternative

Red gold, also known as rose gold, is a metal alloy that, in addition to gold, primarily uses silver and copper as alloying metals. The higher the proportion of copper in the gold, the redder it is, while the amount of silver can create cooler shades in rose gold.

Originally, red gold gained popularity in 19th-century Russia, which is why it is also known as Russian gold. The popularity of red gold waned over time but has seen a resurgence in the 2010s.

Beautifully glowing rose gold has been widely used in fashion jewelry and watches, for example, but rose gold has also found its place as a material for engagement and wedding rings. Red gold is a good choice for those who don't want an overly traditional ring but still appreciate gold as a material.

Red gold as a ring material

Warm rose gold has also gained popularity as a ring material in recent years. The warm and reddish hue of gold appeals to many couples, and it is well suited for those who do not want an overly traditional ring but understand the value of gold. Rose gold is a very beautiful and valuable metal, and it is also easy to maintain and clean.

• Red gold has a beautiful, warm hue that differs from other metals

• Red gold does not tarnish

• Easy precious metal to clean and maintain

• Relatively soft material and scratches easily

• Red gold alloy may contain metals to which you are allergic 

What are gold karats?

It is important to note that a carat refers to different things in precious metals and gemstones. When talking about precious metals, such as gold, a carat is a measure of purity or a unit of fineness.

Expressed in karats, one carat means 1/24th. Thus, 9-karat gold contains 9/24ths pure gold, 14-karat gold contains 14/24ths pure gold, and 18-karat gold contains 18/24ths pure gold.

Pure gold, or 24-karat gold, is too soft to be used in jewelry, so it is alloyed with other metals to achieve the desired workability, hardness, and color shade.

Authentic gold jewelry always has a hallmark indicating the gold content of the piece. According to Finnish precious metal regulations, precious metal contents must not be expressed in karats in hallmarks but in parts per thousand by mass. The higher the number, the finer the material. The conversion table below shows how gold content compares to gold karats.

Platinum - gorgeous platinum color enhances the brilliance of diamonds

 

Platinum is a grey-white, bright metal with a bluish tint. Platinum does not tarnish under any circumstances, and its pure white platinum color beautifully enhances the brilliance of diamonds.

Platinum is a soft but also very tough and hypoallergenic metal. Platinum is generally the most expensive option for a ring material, as it has a high specific gravity and processing platinum requires specialized tools in addition to specialized expertise.

The hallmarkable purities of platinum in Finland are 850, 900, 950, and 999. Alloying metals such as copper, palladium, iridium, and cobalt can be used.

Platinum is also currently used as a coating for silver. When silver is surface-treated with platinum, the protective surface layer prevents the silver from tarnishing.

Platinum as a ring material

Platinum is a highly esteemed and durable ring material. Platinum is significantly stronger than gold as a material, and its color is naturally beautifully light. When worn, platinum does not change its color because it is not rhodium-plated. Durability, rarity, and low maintenance are qualities of platinum that its buyers appreciate.

• Platinum is a very strong, hard, and durable precious metal

• Hypoallergenic, making it suitable for sensitive skin

• Very dense metal, and therefore heavy

• Platinum is often more expensive than other precious metals like gold 

Palladium - can also be used as an alloying metal

 

Palladium is a soft, silver-colored, and non-toxic metal resembling platinum. Among platinum group metals, it has the lowest density and melting point. Hardened palladium is soft and ductile, and cold working significantly strengthens it.

In jewelry manufacturing, palladium is used because it is a very light, soft, and easily workable material. Large pieces of jewelry can be made from it without the product's weight and price becoming too high.

In the jewelry industry, palladium is used as an alloying metal for gold, for example, when using white gold. Previously, nickel was used to whiten gold alloys, but with the increasing prevalence of nickel allergies, its use has been avoided.

Palladium white gold is softer and has better resistance to skin effects and air oxides. A poor white gold alloy yellows strongly, but palladium white gold guarantees the best possible color for the jewelry. Palladium is also added to platinum to improve its workability and lighten the color of platinum.

Palladium as a ring manufacturing material is not a new invention, but palladium rings are not yet part of many manufacturers' standard collections. The good news is that many manufacturers will, however, produce a ring from palladium upon customer request. Buying a palladium ring often requires proactive engagement with the manufacturer or retailer.

• Palladium is a durable but lightweight metal

• The shade of palladium does not change with use

• A more affordable precious metal than, for example, gold or platinum

• Palladium rings are currently relatively rare 

Silver in jewelry - a combination of silver and copper

 

Pure silver is a white, beautifully shiny material. Silver is softer than copper but harder than gold, easily malleable, and a very ductile metal. Silver has excellent thermal and electrical conductivity, which is why it is also a widely used metal in the electronics industry. At one time, silver was considered almost as valuable as gold, but today gold is clearly a more valuable precious metal than silver.

In jewelry manufacturing, 925 silver, also known as sterling silver, is primarily used. In sterling silver, copper is a common alloying agent, which enables silver to be worked into various pieces of jewelry.

A disadvantage of copper is that it oxidizes over time, causing silver to tarnish. The tarnishing of silver can be prevented by proper cleaning and storage of the jewelry.

Very often, silver is surface-treated either by rhodium plating or platinum plating. Surface treatment prevents silver from tarnishing and gives it a beautiful and bright color. However, the surface treatment wears off with use, so silver may need to be re-plated at regular intervals.

Silver rings are very popular everyday jewelry due to their affordable price. However, silver is also gaining popularity as an engagement ring material, and for example, the Lumoava collection already includes several silver engagement rings for men and women.

• Beautiful silver color also goes well with other metal jewelry

• Silver is more affordable than gold and easily malleable

• Silver scratches and wears quite easily

• Silver tarnishes over time

• Silver needs to be rhodium-plated - platinum-plated regularly
  

What material suits me best?

When acquiring a ring, it's important to consider your personal style and other preferences, as well as your daily life and the kind of wear and tear the ring needs to withstand. Also, consider how much time you want to spend on ring maintenance, or if you value a maintenance-free material.

Gold is timeless and classic but relatively soft, so for someone who does physical work, durable platinum or palladium might be more suitable than gold, white gold, or rose gold. Alternatives for ring materials can also be found outside of precious metals, such as durable titanium or steel.

Different contact allergies and sensitive skin significantly affect the choice of a ring, as the ring is meant to be worn every day. Different gold alloys may contain metals to which you are allergic, so you should favor hypoallergenic options.

Buying a ring doesn't always have to cost hundreds or thousands of euros; a ring can also be acquired on a small budget! Beautiful silver is a significantly more affordable option than gold. Silver rings are usually combined with beautiful and sparkling zirconia stones, making the ring resemble a beautiful diamond ring.

Other jewelry materials

Non-precious metal jewelry and ring materials include steel, titanium, and ceramic. These are also particularly popular materials for men's rings, and often people with contact allergies can use ceramic and titanium rings, among others. There are many ring materials, and rings can even be made from silicone and wood!

Combinations of different materials are also popular, and many men's rings combine, for example, traditional gold with durable titanium or dark zirconium. Learn about other jewelry materials in this article.

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